Choices for metal in your jewelry collection go far beyond the usual.
A luxurious sofa looks out of place on a threadbare carpet. A burger is just a salad and some meat without the bun to hold everything together. And a database is a confusing mess of information without software to give it structure.
In much the same way, the metal in a piece of jewelry provides an elegant base, holds gemstones in place and creates structure that makes the whole design work. In fact, the metal has a special beauty all its own. And, in many designs, metal is the only element in the jewelry.
Metals used in fine jewelry typically are called precious metals. Historically, they comprise platinum, gold and silver. Today, fine jewelry is also made of sterling silver, cobalt, palladium, titanium, tungsten carbide (titanium and tungsten carbide are more likely used in men’s jewelry) and even space-age ceramic. With all these options available, making a choice can get a little complicated. Here’s a quick guide to the pros and cons of each metal.
Platinum
Appearance:
This naturally white metal has a lustrous appearance.
Pros:
Platinum’s rarity, purity and strength make it popular for jewelry, symbolizing pure and everlasting love. Platinum doesn’t expand when exposed to heat, never tarnishes and is hypoallergenic, so it’s a good choice for those with sensitive skin or a nickel allergy.
Cons:
Despite their strength, platinum rings will develop a patina over time, though a trip to the jeweler for polishing will return the original shine. It’s a dense, heavy metal so it’s most popular in rings and smaller-scale pendants and earrings for women.
Yellow gold
Appearance:
Gold is naturally yellow. In its purest form (24 karat), it’s too soft for everyday use in jewelry so it’s alloyed with other metals that increase its strength and alter its color. Gold is available in 18K, 14K and 10K, with the higher numbers indicating more pure gold and fewer alloys. As used in jewelry, yellow gold is typically pure gold mixed with silver and copper.
Pros:
It resists tarnish and corrosion and is strong, yet malleable enough to be used in intricate jewelry designs.
Cons:
Gold can scratch (the scratches can be polished away, though you lose minute amounts of the metal with each polishing). Its volatile pricing in the commodities market means frequent and significant shifts in value, which affects retail prices and the amount for which you should insure gold jewelry.
White gold
Appearance:
Bright, shiny white. White gold is mixed with palladium and silver or nickel, copper and zinc to attain its color. It’s usually plated with rhodium, making it safe to wear for those with a nickel allergy.
Pros:
Resists tarnish, is strong but still pliable enough to be used in detailed jewelry designs.
Cons:
The rhodium plating can wear off over time. Jewelry can be re-plated.
Rose and green gold
Appearance:
Not surprisingly, rose gold is a warm pink and green gold is a mellow greenish yellow. Golds known as pink, rose and red are yellow gold mixed with copper and silver; green gold is yellow gold mixed with silver.
Pros:
As with the other colors, rose and green gold won’t tarnish and can be made into beautiful jewelry.
Cons:
It can scratch, which can be polished out.
Sterling silver
Appearance:
This white metal is a grayer white than platinum but is still beautiful.
Pros:
Pure silver is too soft for everyday wear so it’s alloyed with copper or other metal for added strength. Sterling silver jewelry is typically 92.5% pure silver and is often marked “925,” which means 925 parts per thousand are silver. It’s an affordable jewelry metal.
Cons:
It scratches and tarnishes easily, which often plays into the jewelry design, with recessed areas allowed to darken as an accent. However, sterling silver jewelry still should be stored in tarnish-resistant cloth bags in a jewelry box.
Stainless steel
Appearance:
Similar to sterling silver.
Pros:
It contains chromium, which resists oxidation. It also resists rust and corrosion and is an affordable jewelry metal.
Cons:
It’s fairly new to the jewelry scene and is still associated mostly with cutlery and flatware, though that perception is changing.
Cobalt
Appearance:
This naturally white alloy is considered a modern alternative to platinum and white gold.
Pros:
Because it's so tough, cobalt is used often for men’s rings. It’s also hypoallergenic and resistant to corrosion and wear.
Cons:
As a fairly new jewelry metal, cobalt hasn’t yet developed the history and romance associated with platinum, gold and silver. Cobalt rings can only be resized slightly, up to ½ size.
Palladium
Appearance:
This naturally white metal has a lustrous sheen and is part of the platinum family of precious metals.
Pros:
Like platinum, its purity and strength make it an option for jewelry. Also like platinum, it doesn’t expand when exposed to heat, never tarnishes and is hypoallergenic. It’s lighter than platinum.
Cons
As a fairly new jewelry metal, it hasn’t yet developed the history and romance of its sister metal, platinum.
Titanium
Appearance:
Black, gray or silver, titanium is used mostly for rings in the jewelry world.
Pros:
Titanium doesn’t include alloys, is hypoallergenic and has a very high strength-to-weight ratio so it’s durable and comfortable to wear.
Cons:
Titanium rings cannot be resized, engraved or soldered, so it can’t be set with stones. Heat used in the manufacturing process can damage the metal.
Tungsten Carbide
Appearance:
This strong metal of 80% tungsten and 20% carbon is gray or white.
Pros:
In addition to its extreme strength (four times harder than titanium and very dense), tungsten carbide is hypoallergenic and scratch resistant so it’s ideally suited to people with active lifestyles.
Cons:
Although scratch resistant, tungsten rings can still be marred. Eliminating the scratches requires special attention because of its strength. It can’t be resized or engraved, and is brittle and may shatter under enough pressure. And like the other newer jewelry metals, it hasn’t yet developed the history and romance of platinum, gold and silver.
Ceramic
Appearance:
This strong combination of ceramic materials and the metal zirconium comes in black, white or pink. In jewelry, it’s often combined with other metals.
Pros:
It’s extremely scratch-resistant, hypoallergenic and affordable. Color is consistent throughout.
Cons:
It can’t be resized or engraved, is brittle and may shatter under enough pressure.
Bonus Tips
Precious metals are a good starting place to build a jewelry wardrobe. In addition to pearl strands and birthstone rings, consider these metal mainstays:
- Charm bracelets.
- Gold earrings in the shape of a ball.
- Basic hoop earrings (one set small, one set medium).
- Neck chain.
- Heart and circle gold pendants.
- Gold bracelets.
- Bangle (a bracelet with some rigidity, though some are slightly flexible).
- Gold-case watch.
- For men, a gold-case watch, gold chains, cuff links.
